State Highway 43. 150 kilometers from Taumarunui to Stratford. One of the quietest stretches in the country — remote valleys, dense bush, and a sense that the world moved on without it.

I’ve driven it both ways. Summer for longer days, autumn when the light slants low through the trees. The road’s fully sealed now — finished early 2025 — so no more gravel surprises in the gorge. Still narrow, still winding. Allow a full day, or better, overnight in the middle.

Start in Taumarunui — small town, good for fuel and supplies. No stations along the highway.

First stretch follows the Whanganui River. Gentle at first, then the saddles begin — four of them. Strathmore Saddle offers open views; pull over if the weather’s clear.

Detour option early: Lauren’s Lavender Farm near the start. Fields in bloom December to March, quiet spot for coffee.

Then Moki Tunnel. 180 meters, single lane, hand-carved back in the 1930s. Locally called Hobbit’s Hole. Narrow, dark, timber roof. Honk before entering — common courtesy, since you can’t see the other end.

Short detour after: Mount Damper Falls. 15 km off Moki Road, 20-minute walk to an 85-meter drop. Best after rain — water thunders over papa rock.

Tangarakau Gorge follows. Sheer walls, podocarp forest thick on both sides. Road hugs the river; rapids below if you listen.

Halfway: Whangamōmona. Self-declared republic since 1989 — boundary changes sparked it. Stop at the hotel. Classic pub, meals, cold drinks. Get your “passport” stamped if you’re collecting quirks. Locals chat if you linger.

After the village, more saddles — Whangamōmona Saddle for panoramas, Tahora Saddle overlooking old rail tunnels and pā sites.

End in Stratford. Shakespearean touches if that’s your thing — clock tower performs lines from the balcony scene.

Practical notes.

Drive slow — curves tighten, slips possible after heavy rain. Check NZTA for updates. Fuel in Taumarunui or Stratford. Data drops out for long stretches — offline maps help, but an eSIM like ANZroam picks up signal when it flickers back.

It’s not about speed. The road feels forgotten because it is. You notice the quiet, the history in the cuttings, the way the bush closes in. Pull over often. That’s where it lingers.